Skead
Skead is a small community just past the Sudbury Airport. Once in Skead, take a right onto East Bay Road, and travel down the road for 1.8 km. There is a small parking spot on the left side of the road. The crag is on the east side of the road. There is a small rock outcrop on the opposite side of the road from the parking spot - climb this and continue into the bush until you find some scree. Follow the scree in this fantastic birch forest and it'll take you to the base of the cliff, it's only a 5-minute Stroll from the car. High friction crag from the acid rains (much like Harvey's). An X is etched into the rock at the base of the climbs.
- Trad -
Routes
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1 Walk in the Park | 5.5 | 40'
FFA Marco Foladore/Laura Schmidt July 28 2018
The first obvious thin crack just to the right of the main dihedral. Looks harder than it actually is from the ground. Follow the crack to the big ledge 3/4 of the way up, hang a right to the small pine tree to belay off of. This is a good rap station to the bottom.
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2 Country Jangle | 5.6 | 40'
FFA Marco Foladore/Laura Schmidt July 28 2018
Three metres to the right of Walk in the Park is Country Jangle. The top is a beautiful slightly leaning straight crack with the start a bit more blocky.
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15 m to the right there are two slabby dihedrals.
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3 Picnic | 5.5 | 50'
FFA Marco Foladore/Laura Schmidt July 28 2018
A fun dihedral with a spicey 5.5 roof and to keep up the heat, pull the block up on the top instead of going around it.
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4 Prepubescent Nuts | 5.9 | 50'
FFA Maxime Jacques/Marco Foladore June 2018
The next dihedral over, bring your small nuts, and be gentle with them.
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5 Zig Zag | 5.6 | 60'
FFA Danylo Darewych/Mike Grainger August 25 2018
Start about 5 m left of Strolling just right of big detached block (letter Z scratched into the rock). Follow a diagonal crack up left for 7-8 m, then zag back right over a slight bulge. Diagonal up to the right around the corner to place pro (really long slings needed), step back down to the left and go up the vertical face (no pro), then up to the top on easy ledges.
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6 Strolling | 5.6 | 50'
FFA Marco Foladore/Maxime Jacques June 2018
An open book with a nice little walk up an overhang halfway up.
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7 Mini Tradurday | 5.9+ | 50'
FFA Marco Foladore/Laura Schmidt July 28 2018
10 m to the climber's right of Strolling. It was a Saturday trad climb with three fantastic finger locking moves at the bottom. Unfortunately it ended there with some excessively easy climbing to the top.
Country Jangle
Picnic
- Ice -
Treeversing | WI2 | 35'
FFA Marco Foladore/Tim Kingshott
Found on the far side of the cliff. A great climb for early in the season, as it doesn't require crossing any frozen lakes to access.